Collapse weave isn't a structure but a style of fabric that combines different fiber properties, differently spun yarns, or different structures to create puckers, ribs, or pleats once the fabric is washed. In our scarves, we combine areas of plain weave with areas with floats. When the fabric is washed, it puckers in both the warp and weft directions. We used 5/2 Rayon sett at 16 epi for these scarves because rayon has great drape and "swing" when you move. We used two colors to create a pair of coordinated but different scarves.
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